Mists and mellow fruitfulness
Pureora to Camp Epic
43.8km (including a 'DOC 3.6km' side trip on foot)
A relatively short day today, but with a significant climb to the highest point of the North Island TA route, on the flanks of Mount Pureora. We'd also decided to take the side walk to the mountain summit to take in the 360° views promised by the ute-borne mountain bikers yesterday afternoon, so we were aiming for an early-ish start. Wendy & Tony were also staying at the Pureora cabins, so social convention resulted in some delay. In other words, we had a good old natter...
It was a bit chilly but the morning mist was burning off quickly as we set off.
We joined the Timber Trail at its very beginning, unlike the Breveteers who usually take a shortcut from Link Road. The surroundings here are virgin bush, the Pureora community having been persuaded of the value of the natural environment over the diminishing returns from timber extraction. Underfoot (or more precisely, undertyre) the single-track was a thick layer of compacted forest debris, winding smoothly between the enormous trees. Totara, rimu, kahikatea. After a few kilometres we met the link track past the old logging tractor, so a short detour was made for the obligatory 'old machinery' photo op.
Back on the main track the surface varied between loose gravel, deeply rutted dirt and smooth, compacted sand, often seemingly within the space of 100m. The big, 'gentle' (according to the Kennetts: everything is relative!) climb started, grinding on up 450m over 8km or so, more open now in the regenerating bush. We got a clear view of our mountain objective, and a little further on some info boards explained the three generations of forest visible from that point. We were passed by a group of 6 riders on lightly loaded ebikes, then, fortunately while taking a break, by a large group of youngsters powering up the hill unassisted. As for me, my legs were not cooperating and I was using power all the way, frequently on the second, 'Trail' level; most of the time I can get by on 'Eco', the lowest level of assist.
At 11km we reached the walking track, and set off on the supposed 1.8km climb. 40 minutes one-way, according to the sign. Hah! From the TT it climbed steeply, the poorly maintained DOC steps obviously forming a series of waterfalls in wet weather, with a muddy 'plunge pool' trapped behind each wooden riser. Eventually the thick forest thinned out, the gradient eased, and we felt the full intensity of the midday sun. Not far now, we thought. Wrong! Mt Pureora has a gently domed summit, and the approach to the trig seemed to take forever. We're convinced it was more than 1.8km, an opinion shared by the couple we met on their way back down. The views though were as breathtaking as the climb, a full panorama of the surrounding bush and all the distant peaks, including freshly snow-capped Ruapehu, the pure cone of Ngarahoe, and the jagged ridge of Tongariro. Only missing from the set was Taranaki, lost in the distant cloud. Of course, Titiraupenga was very much in evidence... The descent was marginally quicker than the climb, but it was still a 1hr45 round trip, arriving back at our bikes in time for lunch. We'd just finished eating when Graham & Lloyd rocked up, having taken a prolonged break in Auckland in the meantime. After a brief catch-up, they headed off en route toward the TT Lodge for their overnight.
From our lunch stop it was a short hop to the track summit and the start of a long, sawtooth downhill. The rough surface and unpredictable meandering of the trail, plus some steep drop-offs and occasional switchbacks, playing into our natural sense of self-preservation, made for fairly slow progress. The TT is very well served by frequent information boards, explaining both the environment and the history. On the way up from Pureora we'd stopped at every one, but on the way down we skipped most.
After one easy descent down a benched track, the trail turned sharp right to cross the intriguingly named Bog Inn Creek on the first of several long swingbridges. A few kilometres back we'd passed Wendy, pushing over a particularly rough rise, and a couple of k's later found Tony waiting for her to catch up (obviously Marg's pep-talk about staying together for safety was going unheeded!). After we'd spent some time videoing each other ** crossing the bridge, and reading about its history, we were just a out to move on when Wendy & Tony appeared at the other end. We waited to video them crossing, which we thought they might appreciate, but they spent so long dicking around on the other side that I walked back along the bridge to capture the views up and down the valley. Eventually Tony rode across as I walked off the bridge and explained they were taking a picture to post on the 'Aussies leaning bikes against things' website (yes, there is such a thing, apparently!). The rules do not allow any animate objects in the photos, so I was spoiling their shot...
The ride continued in the same vein, generally dropping toward Piropiro flats but with a lot of ups and downs as various streams were crossed. The quality of the trail remained variable, but generally more of the rough than the smooth. Eventually we reached the TT Lodge, sitting in its superior position above the trail, followed soon after by a sign to the DOC campground exit (we never found the entrance!), and finally the short side-track (downhill then back up, of course) to Camp Epic. We checked in with Anna as the only guests for the night, so we had the pick of camping spots. The place represents a huge investment, but loses out to the TT Lodge for its glamping, and DOC for camping. $45 per person to sleep in your own tent is a lot to pay for a hot shower (wonderful) and battery charge!
BTW, the lost draft was much more entertaining, but you'll never know 😉
**It was at this point, as Marg got our her phone for the first time that day, that we realised the error of leaving our bikes in the full sun whilst ascending Mt Pureora: our tin of Sweet Cheeks Butt Butter had exploded inside Marg's bar bag. The heat had caused the cream to build up enough pressure to deform the can lid, sufficient that it no longer screws down tight!! This is phenomenon I earn my living modelling, albeit on a much larger scale, so I'm suitably embarrassed that it was only next day that the lightbulb came on...
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