Sunshine after the rain

Lake Hawea to Cardrona
50km
OK, so I couldn't resist the cliche after all. The rain stopped before 7AM, as predicted, and the skies began to clear. Even the threatening clouds down the lake receded whence they came. But before we set off, a postscript...
At dinner last night, a serendipitous error ( whether by the server or the kitchen was never disclosed) resulted in us having quite the best dining experience we can remember. Marg ordered "the salmon' meaning a seared salmon main, but was served an entree, 'Salmon Poke'. Ceviche of salmon with makame and ponzu (Google...we did!). This was after nearly not 'dining in', after being told no tables were available as we hadn't reserved, but not having been warned of the need to book when we checked in. We were vacillating between dining in the uncomfortable but expensive bar, or getting take-away from the cafe. An astute young staff member noticed, and miraculously found a cancellation rather than lose a sale; she deserves to go far!
Moving on, as we must keep doing, the first half of our 50km today was off-road, initially following the Hawea River Track, a generally smooth, wide gravel track as far as Albert Town. Sunny but cool, the occasional other track user, and generally downhill, it was a dream ride to the Clutha crossing. Beyond that we were onto the Outlet Track, a narrow, undulating single-track on the bank of the Clutha. A bit nervewracking, given how busy it was with walkers and cyclists: a sunny, warm Waitangi day holiday had the world and his dog out on their bikes!* It was stunning, nonetheless. We were in Wanaka in time for an early lunch, and lingered long in the sunshine on the lakefront. Big mistake...
When we finally set off on the climb into the Crown Range our legs were 'cold', and the first climb out of Wanaka was a bit of an ordeal. It got easier as the gradient decreased and our legs warmed up. This was however the least pleasant experience yet: the last afternoon of a long weekend is probably not the best time to tackle even the lower reaches of the Crown Range road. Once again, most drivers were extremely considerate but the sheer volume of traffic had us both on edge. There were the occasional jerks of course, and we are grateful for the approaching drivers willing to take to the shoulder to keep us safe.
So to our stay at the iconic Cardrona Hotel. What a place! There's something magical about the atmosphere that's been created, from the maze-like bar and restaurant, to the tranquility of the courtyard garden, to the indescribable (literally, I've been trying to find the right adjectives for the last five minutes!) pub garden. The restaurant lived up to expectations too (and this time, we WERE prompted to book a table when we checked in), with a sublime venison backstrap and perfect risotto. A very special treat.
* I lied about the dog!

Comments

  1. The Palmers Go KiwiFebruary 7, 2023 at 9:59 PM

    Delighted to see you have finally got to enjoy some well deserved sunny weather...hope it keeps up for the rest.of the trip - not too far to go now!!

    ReplyDelete

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