(Up) Into the woods

The Narrows to Waipoua River

64.3km (including a walk in the woods!) 

We'd decided to catch the 8:30 ferry to Rawene, so a bit of a lie in after yesterday. But then we realised we were just about ready to go at 7:30 so the 7:45 saiing beckoned. A quick sprint the 1.6km to the ferry had us being the last to board: I'd like to say the already closed boarding gate was re-opened just for us, but that privilege was reserved for the Toyota Prius that had roared past us on the road! We weren't the only ones leaving it to the last minute...

Once on the other side (for the princely sum of $2 each) it was straight uphill on Rawene's 'bustling' main street en route to SH12. More rural NZ scenery, more short steep hills. Once on the highway there were a couple of grueling climbs that my legs just wouldn't co-operate with; I actually found myself using the Boost setting at one point. Then the descent back to the Hokianga coastline and a trundle past the mangroves into Opononi, followed in quick succession by  Omapere, and the spectacular Hokianga harbour heads. I guess sand-boarding is not a thing there only because the dunes are so inaccessible.

The book mentions a sharp 110m climb out of Omapere, and it's not wrong. It also suggests stopping at the top to look back at the 'panorama of the Hokianga harbour'. It's not wrong there either. What it didn't mention was the one local driver who decided to pass on a blind left-hander as we swept down the other side. When you can feel the warm air from the radiator, it's too close... An Agincourt salute resulted in the driver slamming on his brakes to have it out with me: I wish I could have been more measured in my response beyond shouting that if he couldn't leave 1.4m he shouldn't have passed. His opinion was that I should have been in the shoulder gravel at 40+ kph... That said, all the other drivers have been brilliant, lots of friendly toots & waves along the way.

10km further on, after another sharp climb and descent, then a longer stretch of bobbly bits, morning tea-time saw us at the FourSquare in Waimamaku, hopefully seeking something vaguely healthy to accompany our dehy beef teriyaki tonight. One cucumber and two precious apples  (there's a worldwide shortage of apples in NZ at the moment, consequent to Cyclone Gabriel last year). And a hot sossy roll, bacon & pie, and two Cornettos. Did I say healthy? While we were sitting in the sun enjoying our bounty, every local we spoke to about our plans either vocally or gesturally warned us about the long climb to come!

And long it was... But actually not as vicious as the profile in the Kennetts' book suggested. That said, before we'd gone 2km I was struggling on 'Trail' and convinced I'd have to stop. Then something clicked in, in my legs or maybe even my head and I found a rhythm, clicking between 3 gears in 'Eco' mode. That said we still needed a couple of breathers over the 7km climb. Eventually we crested the brow and headed downhill to our encounter with the King of the Forest. Obligatory control point selfy taken, plus several more shots, we headed back to the bikes and a chat with Louise, the Te Roroa guide. She recommended we did the still-permitted Kauri Walk a bit further up the road to also bag Te Matua Ngahere (the Father of the Forest), the oldest and second largest living Kauri tree, where Jason the guide kept an eye on our bikes while we took the 40 minute stroll.

After a brief climb we were into the long, winding descent down to the  Waipoua river bridge, and the unknown to Google right turn to the campground. Only to be confronted by a red traffic light! It guarded the first of two sections of one lane road beside the river, leading to the former Visitor Centre (now Te Roroa's headquarters) and the somewhat rundown campsite. But there are clean flushing loos, hot showers and a basic kitchen so it's way up on DOC. Home for the night is our wee green tent, with a morepork providing the lullaby...

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