O'er the hills and closer to home

Palmerston North to Ekatahuna

68km

Big shout out to Karena & Margaret at the Esplanade Motel in Palmy. Keen and involved TA supporters, less than 200m off route, upgraded room so we had (but didn't use) a spa bath, loan of a high volume footpump, loan of a car to go up the hill for groceries. Stars! Reason we didn't partake of a spa was that we were hosted to a full roast lamb dinner by Marg's cousin, so our evening was fully occupied. A great catch-up and even better meal.

We started the day in trepidation as almost out of the box we were on the Pahiatua Track (PT), which is effectively an undesignated state highway. To make matters (potentially) worse, the alternative Saddle Road is closed during the day at the moment, though not until 10 AM on Friday. So we tried to get away reasonably early, though a long conversation with Karena delayed us a little. We'd debated whether to head back North to the old Gorge road, which is officially closed to all users but passable on foot or by bike. But the purist won out...

Over the river, back up the hill past New World, with a roadside cycleway, and onto the shoulder down as far as a right turn uphill through a new 'lifestyle' subdivision (where Marg made a couple of new friends) and a last look at the best view of Palmerston North; i.e. from a distance. Then rapidly back down to rejoin the PT a bit further along. No idea what horrors we were spared by this alternative...

According to the Kennetts the shoulder has been widened, but it's still not generous. I guess when they first mapped out the route the PT was a bit of a backwater, but the closure of the Manawatu Gorge road has changed that. It winds steeply up over the Tararua range. To be honest the traffic was not bad, with only a few trucks. We'd stopped for our 10km break just before the steep bit and joked that some of the laden trucks were going up as slowly as us! During the following 4km climb we were passed by a few vehicles, all but one of which gave us as much space as they could; one truck even slowed to our pace until we found a spot to dive off and let it pass. Let's just say several directors of Fonterra are going to get very specific details about the milk-tanker that passed us with its wheels on the shoulder line, clear view and nothing coming downhill. I swear it almost took Marg's mirror off...

Down the other side nothing passed us at all. We took a pause to capture the first view of Wairarapa, and continued down the 2km to where the PT goes right and we went straight ahead. An Intercity bus had just caught up with me, but with its engine in the rear it was near silent. A bit of a shock when it went past. But not as much of a shock as the three vehicles behind it which followed us onto the side-road. Down the pretty good gravel of Tararua Road for 6km or so, emerging back onto a sealed road just as the only local resident was checking his mail. We must have spent 30 minutes chatting about the TA, other trails and ebikes. Our generally slow pace has given us time to spare for folk along the way.

One thing the guide fails to mention is that you rejoin the PT into Pahiatua. And nearly 5km of it is winding up and downhill with fast traffic and often no shoulder... We survived it (obviously) and found the local's recommended bakery for a jalapeno steak & cheese pie, a sossie roll, flat white and tea. Was this a late morning smoko, or an early lunch? 

While sitting at the outside table, another local stopped by, asking about our TA experience and telling us of her road touring exploits, including a circuit through the Gorge to Levin, Paekakariki, into Welly via the Ngauranga gorge and the reverse of our trip through the Wairarapa. Looking at Marg, you could see the wheels turning...

As we approached the summit of the first ridge out of Pahiatua, I noticed a cool-looking observation platform, with a rope swingbridge linking it to a steel tower, and a steep-as flying fox running down from it. We crested the rise expecting a public playground, only to find it was all in a private residence. To cap it all, at the back of the garden there was a shiny blue and red roller-coaster. Some lucky kids' (of whatever age, big or child) personal theme-park. With spectacular views...

Crossing a second ridge, we descended steeply into the Tiraumea valley, before veering off to start our climb up the Mangaone valley, at first rolling over a series of spurs on its West flank, before dropping down to gently climb an apparently endless series of river flats. One feature of New Zealand's landscape that I find absolutely fascinating is how wide, flat valleys close in to narrow, steep gorges, then open out again into huge areas of flat land. In my past experience, a gorge has always been the precursor to the head of the valley. I have myriad reasons to be grateful to Marg (not least that she puts up with me!) but one I really appreciated today is the introduction to this amazing country (which I otherwise may never have visited) and the opportunity to enjoy its stunning scenery. As I looked around I was continuously in awe of its beauty. 

Along the way we also came briefly into contact with another mob of sheep on the road, but a laconic 'Yeah, nah, just ride on through them' from the shepherd soon had us ahead of the flock, and we delayed our next stop until they were a safe distance behind. We were joined under our shade tree by the lead shepherd, who told us they still had another 2 1/2k to go to their destination.

Whether the Mangaone river flats are truly endless we never discovered, as we turned West up a side valley (and into a brisk headwind) and sharply over the ridge to descend into Ekatahuna, and its giant white kiwi. A brief stop at FourSquare for dinner supplies, and on out of town to the campground. It's a secluded, tranquil place, with a couple of well equipped cabins (fridge jug toaster), a well organised kitchen, and excellent showers.

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