Will we won't we...
Masterton to Featherston
74km
A short cut out of the campground via the pedestrian gate not only delivered us directly to the river path out of town but spared us a sharp climb and descent on the road.
We crossed the river via the suspension footbridge and carried on down the opposite bank through the park-like riverside path, avoiding any contact with SH2. Back on the road, our first turn took us onto the rural road we would follow for the next 37km. Have to say my sense of direction was all to cock, as my brain was convinced we were West of SH2, but as our next destination was Martinborough, which is East of SH2, we'd have to cross it somewhere. Wouldn't we? Not...
The surrounding landscape has much more form than the final run into Masterton, consisting of river flats and gullies, but the profile is benign and we're making (relatively) rapid progress. The first 20km disappear by 10AM, but then we're climbing gradually toward the high spot for today. There is a sense of affluence in the surroundings, with horses more prevalent than sheep...
The horse paddocks (or gardens, or copses) suddenly gave way to vineyards, but not much point in stopping to taste if we can't buy! Plus which we have self-imposed deadline to be in Martinborough by 1PM, as Marg's brother and sister-in-law are driving up to join us for lunch. Up to this point we'd generally been unaware of the wind, until we stopped. Which means it was behind us... But as we progressed up the valley we were increasingly hit by gusts of headwind, indicating a gradual change of direction from South toward West. And at the first junction since Masterton we abruptly turn back on ourselves and head briefly Northwest, then West, then the final approach into Martinborough directly Northwest again. Directly into the blustery wind.
In fact, we make it by about 12:40, giving us time to explore the various lunchtime dining options. In theory. We are just about to start an investigatory circuit of the garden square on foot when we are accosted by two late-middle-aged women, tourists from Canada, fellow cyclists, who want to know what we're up to. Another 15 minutes spent comparing notes and recommending things to do and see in their remaining time in NZ, but we do get a recommendation for a cafe. Which is just as well as Geoff & Linda arrive as we finally escape! Lunch was a leisurely affair, lingering over stories from the road, the pork, cheese and cauliflower sausage roll an unusual but delicious combination.
Eventually we parted company, but only after unloading our camping gear on the rellies to lighten tomorrow's load. That didn't yet get us on the road, as another customer, inevitably another cyclist, engaged us in conversation. Equally inevitably, the conversation ended along the lines of 'Featherston? You'll have a headwind then...' As we did, heading relentlessly Northwest, mostly on the busy SH53. As ever, the courtesy offered by drivers was remarkable. So why did the Kennetts, whose route planning had kept us off-highway and on interesting trails, while following an efficient route generally South, bring us all the way to (in fact, East of) Martinborough only to double back toward Featherston. Because there's no alternative (other than SH2) is why. A look at the topo map shows a distinct lack of bridges, which would permit more joined-up roading.
So we punched a headwind for the last 20km of the route, reminding me of day one on 90 Mile Beach, particularly when we hit the gravel on Longwood Road. The ford was dry, but the surprise was that it wasn't a concrete washway, but has a rough, rocky bottom. Every bit of shelter from the gusty Westerly was welcome.
As I write, we're listening to the building gale outside, and seriously considering delaying our crossing of the Remutaka by a day. The forecast for Tuesday is Southeasterlies, which is a less favourable direction for the Hutt Valley and the harbour but better for the incline itself. More importantly, it's forecast to be around half the strength of tomorrow's Nor'wester. Meanwhile we're snug in our room at Magnolia House, having enjoyed an excellent steak at Brac & Bow.
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