Wilderness

Kumara to Hokitika
71km
Out of the backpackers, first right, right at the end, and we're on the WCWT. As always in a backpacker place lots of interesting conversation with other guests in the kichen, including a motorcycling family who sailed to NZ from South Africa and a Dutch guy cycling around NZ. Away just before 8 after a false start when we both forgot our backpacks; fortunately realized before we'd gone more than a hundred metres...
Oddly, I can't think of much to say about today. The trail is wonderfully made and stunningly scenic, in all its different personas from intimate, tree-lined single track to wide-open vistas. None of the grades are particularly demanding, the much warned about weir crossings a mere trickle, but the myriad switchbacks demand concentration. The kilometres ticked by with satisfying regularity and we both really enjoyed the ride.
The first of the two lakes above Kumara is very picturesque, but with a very low water level. The higher lake is even worse, the skeletons of drowned trees standing sentinel over the shallow water. 
Once again, the history to be discovered warrants a return visit with enough time to read all the information; these lakes and the associated waterways were created to support goldmining in the mid-1800's, now repurposed to feed hydropower generation. Everywhere we've stayed the locals have commented on their need for rain. Unfortunately for us it looks like their wish will be granted this week...
At the first water abstraction point we were caught by the Dutchman from the Retreat, riding a no-suspension Surly. We let him go ahead, only to pass him on the ensuing climb. He passed us again on a slight descent and disappeared into the distance. At the Kawhaka summit we met a group of rental day-riders from Wellington and a couple of women doing a three day tour, all in awe of our efforts.
The only 'disappointment' of the day was that Cowboy Paradise was in deserted darkness. Instead we stopped for a very early lunch at a perfectly placed picnic table overlooking the Hokitika valley. Here we were passed by a couple doing the TA in extreme lightweight mode: hardly any volume to their kit but fully equipped for camping. Their target for today was Lake Ianthe...at least!
Today also saw my most nervy stretch on the bike, on the near-level trail beside the Lake Kanieri water race; something about a drop off on both sides, one straight into water of indeterminate depth, made me very twitchy.
Finally into Hokitika for a catch-up with round the world sailing friends Paul and Jane, who are hosting us in their beautiful home. After dinner of a delicious pizza at Pipi's we strolled along the beach to enjoy the efforts of the driftwood artists from this weekend's competition.

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