Tunnel of Love

Nelson to Tapawera
63km according to MMR
I still didn't find an Honest Lawyer!*
Fortunately no lasting ill effects from Marg's tumble yesterday. Worried as a back problem could end the adventure. I will claim the magic fingers did the job...
Today was a cruisy 63km on mostly flat seal and gravel. En route to Richmond the road book bore little resemblance to what was on the ground so we followed the Old Railway route until it joined the Estuary track: IMO the better option as the latter runs alongside the busy SH6. But that's how we missed the landmark pub.*
At Richmond we were passed by Sally and Nick; they'd been at Nelson hospital until 11pm before she got the all-clear. Said we'd see them in Wakefield but they were long gone by the time we got there. Just caught the Rhubarb Cafe for an excellent lunch.
Beyond Wakefield SH6 is an ongoing theme as the route regularly reconnects with it to run alongside (and occasionally on the shoulder) but it's much less busy here.
Of course the highlight of the day is Spooners Tunnel... A lower light is the 'squeeze point' where the climb to the tunnel leaves SH6... quite why it is at the bottom of the steep rise from the road rather than on the level at its top is inexplicable. This is the only section with such access control. The ride through the tunnel is a breeze; very gentle incline, smooth dry surface, and the chill air a welcome respite from the relentless sun!!
From there it's not quite downhill all the way, but a lovely ride following (and frequently crossing) SH6 through pine plantation.
On the final run from Kotahu to Tapawera the track runs alongside the road, apart from one short section where it runs along the road shoulder for 2 or 3 paddocks, perfectly illustrating the 'dickness' of some NZ landowners...
Tapawera campsite seems to be occupied largely by permanent residents but although the amenities are pretty basic and scruffy they are spotless. Dinner of excellent fish and chips (chosen to give the obviously harrassed staff a bit of an easier ride; warnings of early closing or even non-opening due to staff shortages are everywhere) and delicious local beer at the Hop Bar. Bunkroom had still not been serviced but two beds had fresh bedding so a quick rejig got us to bed for a long comfortable sleep. Spent a fair bit of time trying to find places to stay for the next few nights. Both Gowanbrdge backpackers and farm-stay full, so camping at Lake Rotoroa tonight, then Murchison, then a sleep-out at Springs Junction. Also warned there's no food available between Murchison and Reefton: Springs Junction petrol station breaking all records for pie sales! Nobody said this was easy, but that's a song for another day...

Comments

  1. Doing great, you two! Watch out for the hellacious sandflies at Lake Rotoroa! 😫

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