Singing in the rain

Hokitika to Hari Hari

76km

Metservice says rain heavy at first, easing later, which is what appears to be happening... Slightly different from the other two apps I use, so what to do, what to do??? We're getting wet, it's just a question of degree. It is the West Coast after all, though it would have been great if the rain gods had held fire for another few days. Maybe Rob McKenna's here on holiday! At least it's not cold and any breeze is consistently forecast from the Northeast.

One thing, it will be a fast trip as, apart from the obligatory Lake Ianthe photo, there will be no call for photo stops.

Jane provides a typical Kiwi host breakfast: cereal, peaches, homemade yoghurt followed by bacon, eggs & tomato and toast. No hurry to get away, for obvious reasons...

First stop is Hokitika Cycles & Sportsworld and the legendary (to NZ cyclists at least) Gary. More in hope than expectation I hold up my ebike computer and say 'You don't happen to have one of these do you?'. First response is 'I don't think so...' but is followed by much rummaging in a box, which produces an older model, slightly damaged and redundant from a rental bike, with the same mounting. Unfortunately it does not boot on Marg's bike, so back into the shop. Gary then says to, I assume, Mrs Gary 'I can take one off the silver bike, and order a replacement' and to me 'I have to go to my storage shed, pop next door for a coffee while you wait'. While supping coffee Gary returns, fits the computer to Marg's bike, checks it works, gives me a quick tutorial on some features so far unused and heads back to his shop, over the shoulder 'Just pop in to pay when you've finished your coffee'. When Marg goes in to pay, because it's 'second hand' he charges only cost... Truly a legend (though he did find it hilarious that we bike-humped the Waiuta Track detour!).

Finally away from town at 10:50, and follow the orange signs across the Hokitika river. The rain has eased, almost stopped: we were wetter on the ride into town... First surprise of the day is a double-back to cross the Mahinapua stream; the second is that this is more lovely single-track through fern and beech forest. Further surprise is when the heavens open and we are soaked.  Part of the track follows an old tramway from Hokitika to ??: it's chastening to realise local communities had the vision to invest in and execute public mass transit back in the 19th century. What happened?

And so it continues... Just as we are starting to dry out, it buckets down again. Our waterproof jackets and panniers are great; the rest of our gear doesn't pretend to be waterproof and lives up to its honesty. We approached Ross on the boringly straight former rail track fairly dry and snug, only to negotiate the WCWT's dying convolutions in a downpour and arrive at the Ross store in a state to flood the shop. The last two piping hot pies and two equally hot coffees saw us feeling up to the highway leg toward Hari Hari. An 11km back road route keeps us off highway for a welcome period.

Over the hill (no comments please) at Pukekura, the weather continues in the same vein. Lake Ianthe looks...wet! As we approach the Wanganui River (honest!) bridge 5km from HH it's looking positively bright. Then another downpour sees me leaning in through the door of our motel reception rather than make huge puddles on the new-looking floor. Strip off all the outer layers under the veranda and enter the unit, heating on, window closed to try to dry stuff out, not least Marg's phone which has suffered in the non-dry dry-bag she's been using. This is a major crisis as we cannot find our keys for the batteries and bike lock, and need to call Paul & Jane urgently... We eventually sign in to Marg's Google contacts on my phone, and initiate the key search. Not in any of the places we can think of, they'll call us back after a wider search. Nothing else to do, I jump into the bathroom, and I have a 'shower moment'. No, not that sort; I realise I was wearing my gilet when I put the batteries on charge and sure enough the keys are safely tucked up in its pocket, in my backpack. A measure of friendship: Jane's only reaction was 'I guess that means we're coming to Hari Hari for a beer'...

Overnight in a lovely refurbished motel unit, business currently for sale, and really well cooked gurnard & chips in a near-deserted hotel over the road, complete with great craic with the barmaid; NZ's characterful rural hospitality is dying, and it's a tragedy.